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The Mena House Oberoi
The Mena House is, if not the best known hotel in Egypt,
certainly one of the better known. For years, this hotel has
been considered one of the finest in Cairo, and is certainly
one of the most historic, with a long and enchanting past.
The origin of the Mena House was that of a royal lodge
for the Khedive Ismail, used as a rest house for himself and
his guest when hunting in the desert or visiting the
Pyramids at Giza. The main dinning room of today was once
the entire lodge, but in 1869, with the opening of the Suez
Canal, the lodge was enlarged. Also, a road was built
between Cairo and the Pyramids (specifically for the visit
of the Empress Eugenie) which made visits to Giza much
easier.
For a time, Ismail retained the lodge, often allowing it
to be used by royal visitors, including such noteworthy
personalities as Prince Albert Edward of Wales. However,
affairs of the state kept the Khedive himself from using the
lodge with any frequency, so in the early1880s it was sold
to Frederick Head as a private residence.
The Heads, a wealthy English couple, lived an idyllic
life at their new residence, enlarging their home and adding
a second floor. Seeking a name for their estate, Professor
A.H. Saya made the suggestion that it should be called Mena
House, after the first king referenced in the Tablet of
Abydos. But sadly, after owning the house for only five
years, Frederick who was always a delicate soul, died while
on a visit to London.
The Mena House Entrance - circa 1920
Another hugely wealthy English couple, the Locke-Kings
purchased the house from Mrs. Head, and it was they who set
about turning the estate into a luxurious hotel. With plenty
of money to work with and an estate already rich with
furnishings and other treasures left by the Khedive and the
Heads, the Locke-Kings enlarged the building once again,
adding the English touch of great fireplaces that were
unusual in Egypt. However, they retained much of the Arabic
ambiance of the facility, and enhanced this with fine
Mashrabia (wooden screens) work, fine blue tiles, mosaics
and medieval brass-embossed and carved wood doors. Their
taste was excellent, and the hotel has been kept with such
good care, that many of these original fixtures are still in
use.
But despite all the wealthy guests who frequented the
Mena House, rarely did the Locke-Kings make any money from
the hotel. They were very extravagant, and when time came
for a guest's bill to be settled, they tended to say that
they had invited their friends at their own expense. Later,
the couple returned to England and turned the management of
the hotel over first to Baron Rodakowsky, a colorful
gentlemen, and later to Emil Weckel and Mr. Schick, who many
thought owned the establishment. But years later after Mr.
Locke King's death, she finally sold the Mena House to
George Nungovich who operated the Egyptian Hotels Company.
When the Mena House fell into the hands of Mr. Nungovich,
the Egyptian Hotels Company became the owner of every well
known hotel in Cairo. These included the Savoy, the
Continental and the Helwan Hotel, but Mr. Nungovich also
controlled a management contract for the famous Shepheards,
which was destroyed in 1952. He choose has his manager,
August Wild from Zurich who proceeded to turn the Mena House
into a paying proposition.
The Mena House, as most of the other well known hotels in
Cairo, saw considerable activity during both world wars.
The 1913-1914 tourist season was great in Egypt, but the
First World War came to Egypt amongst martial law. The Mena
House was told to hold itself ready for an influx of
Australians. Of course, this was a time when the British
claimed Egypt in their colonial empire, so Alfred Warner, an
English contractor was awarded the job of building a camp
for the Australian Light Horses just behind the hotel. While
there was plenty of hard fighting in the desert, Cairo was
reserved for fun while on leave or training. The Australians
often took over the Casino de Paris, dancing and howling
with mirth, took part in horse and camel races, and
generally had a good time of it.
But later during the First World War, the Mena House
became one of the hospitals, and remained so for the rest of
the war.
After the war, tourism in Egypt truly boomed. More and
more tourists came to the Mena House, and a new wing was
added. As elsewhere, the twenties, roaring as they were, saw
many interesting guests arrive at the hotel. Charlie Chaplin
busied himself at the hotel writing a script for his next
film. King Gustave of Sweden, a true archaeologist, would
come to collect antiquities from dealers, and he was not
alone. Many kings and princes came and went, as the Mena
House always attracted money and the powerful.
A shady spot in the Mena Garden, circa 1920
One delightful story is told in The Mena House, A
short History of a Remarkable Hotel, that
"Milo (then the manager of the Mena House) was on
duty late one night and the huge gate into the hotel had
been locked. Someone honked a horn so imperiously he was
afraid it would awaken his guests in the hotel and asked a
servant to open it quickly. A small Fiat car drove into the
courtyard. Milo continued with the letters he was writing
and wondered what the disturbance had been about. He did not
find the answer until he went to the kitchens. There was the
then Prince Farouk (the crown prince of Egypt), who had
become hungry while out driving, enjoying a beef sandwich
which he had just made himself."
As it turns out, Farouk enjoyed eating at the Mena House.
As the Second World War started, things were much slower
at the Mena House. Unlike World War I, which caught the
world by surprise, people were uneasy prior to the second
war and not much in a holiday mood. But Once again, the
hotel filled with servicemen to the point where additional
staff had to be added. The Australians were back, up to
their usual pranks with plenty of good fun.
Churchill at the Mena House
But matters did not go right at first, as Rommel, the
famous desert fox, initially routed the allied troops.
Later, things went better, and by 1943, the Mena House saw
one of its most exciting years. Plans for Overlord, the
invasion of Europe, had to be discussed by Churchill and
Roosevelt and operations in Southeast Asia needed
consultation with General Chiang Kai-Shek. It was decided
that the Big Three conference should take place at the Mena
House Hotel. In his Book V of the Second World War,
Winston Churchill writes:
"The staffs congregated rapidly. The headquarters of
the conference and the venue of all the British and American
Chiefs of Staff was at the Mena House Hotel, opposite the
pyramids, and I was but half a mile away. The whole place
bristled with troops and anti-aircraft guns, and the
strictest cordons guarded all approaches. Everyone set to
work at their various levels upon the immense mass of
business which had to be decided or adjusted."
Indeed, the Mena House was a fortress, with some five
hundred anti-aircraft guns surrounding the area. There was
even an R.A.F. observation post on top of Cheop's Pyramid!
President Roosevelt and Chiang Kai Chek Meet in the Mena
House Garden.
After the war, more and more tourists came to the Mena
House as tourism became a modern love of the world. As
usual, many of these were heads of state, while famous
personalities seemingly came in droves. In fact, there have
been far too many movie stars and actors, writers, kings and
princes, inventors and industrialists to ever name them all.
Adding to the list including President Roosevelt, Winston
Churchill, Chiang Kai-Chek and General Montgomery came
Barbara Hutton, Omar Shariff, Cecil B. DeMille, Robert
Taylor, Charles Lindbert, President Richard Nixon, President
Jimmy Carter, Henry Kissenger, William Faulkner, Randolph
Hearst, the King of Morocco, King Umberto of Italy, and so
many others.
Famous Guest at the Mena House
Today, the Mena House is owned by Oberoi, a well know
luxury hotel chain operated out of India. It has been
updated a number of times, and one may stay in either the
"Old Palace" or the newer annex. The "Old
Palace" section is scheduled for another renovation in
the immediate future.
 Beautiful
arabesque furniture inlaid with mother of pearl,
hand-crafted mosaic tiles, exquisitely carved brass-bound
wood doors, original works of art and magnificent antiques
all speak of a degree of care and attention to detail which
simply cannot be found in most modern hotels.
Beautiful suites named for Churchill and Montgomery speak
of a bygone era, though every room has the appointments one
would expect of a luxury five star hotel, including air
conditioning, color and closed circuit TV, a well stocked
mini bar, direct dial telephones. But the amenities stretch
far beyond this, as one might expect of a hotel which often
caters to kings and move stars. One may order champagne at 3
a.m., or for that matter a full dinner for six.
A suite at the Mena House
On my recent trip while staying at the Mena House, I was
awakened in the morning to find that I had an unexpected
appointment with government tourism officials. Unprepared,
my best shoes scuffed from the day before, I fretted as
these appointments are always formal. Not to worry, a quick
call bought a valet who quickly had me ready for my meeting,
while the front desk instructed drivers for my destination.
Just the stuff that the Mena House has spend a century
learning to do. I arrived at the meeting on time and at my
best.
 The Mena
House Oberoi also has some of the finest restaurants and
bars in Cairo, not to mention their casino. The Al Rubayat
is a fine example with its arabesque arches, exquisite
mushrabia screens and beautiful antique brass Islamic lamps.
It offers continental cuisine and an international selection
of fine wines. Other restaurants include the Moghul Room
specializing in Indian cuisine, and the Khan el Khalili,
named for the famous market, which operates 24 hours a day.
For breakfast, snacks and light refreshments, there is also
the Greenery.
One of the Mena House's Fine Restaurants
One may partake of drinks in the Sultan Bar with a
magnificent panoramic view of the pyramids, or visit the
Mameluke bar or have an exciting evening in the Abu Nawas
night club. During the summer, try the Oasis Club. Other
indoor entertainment includes the Saddle Discotheque and the
Mena House casino.
The Mena House Casino
Outdoors, the Mena House maintains its own famous stables
where one may ride either horses or camels. There is also
both a large pool and an 18 hole golf course which overlook
the pyramids (not to mention tennis courts and jogging
paths), as well as beautiful gardens all about.
Having been a guest of the hotel, I can say that one
truly feels pampered. It begins at the door as you walk in
and are greeted by a member of the hotel's public relations
staff, and never ends until you leave. It is an experience
that most people interested in Egypt should enjoy and
remember.
The Mena House Oberoi Hotel
Pyramids Road, Giza, Cairo, Egypt
Phone 3833222 / 3833444
Fax: 383777
Reservations
Web Address: http://www.oberoihotels.com/mena.htm
Email obmhosm@oberoi.com.eg |
